F/W 2011/2012 in a Japanese View - Junya Watanabe

Today we're going to make a trip into Asian fashion, more exactly into the Ready-to-Wear F/W 2011/2012 collection of Junya Watanabe. Maybe many of you wonder why didn't i chose Kenzo, or who is Junya Watanabe. Well I really didn't like Kenzo's collection, too many prints, too southern looks, too much brown, so for me it's a no. Now, why Junya Watanabe, well because he's different, because of his very technical and tailored collections and avantgarde looks, but mostly because he's asian and you can see that in his creations, after all this is a travel into Asian fashion.
For this season the designer had in mind a very structured, dark and boyish collection, in my opinion, dominated by leather, and mostly by the leather jackets in various forms. As you'll see in the pictures it resembles greatly with the look adopted by the japanese visual key bands this year (visual key is a style of rock in Japan, for more google it) and also with the type of clothes that Japanese street fashion lovers just adore. There's a bit of a tribal look in the collection (maybe inspired by the asian tribes) in a punk atmosphere combined with traditional japanese elements (taken from the famous kimono). We'll se some oversized dresses, many layers , a typical japanese style.
Again the collection is dominated by the black colour with a tiny bit of grey, brown and some leopard print for the fur collars.
For the fabrics, leather primarily, fur, knitwear and some cotton (after all is a Japanese designer, he needs a traditional fabric).
Regarding the clothes, the main trend that Watanabe launches with this collection is the leather jacket in different forms, from the very tailored jackets to kimono like jackets. As leather being the main fabric, it's not used only for the jackets, but also for the tunics and blouses, pants and even for the dresses, but in a softer version. The jackets are worn with short and medium pleated skirts with black tights and flat boots or military boots and the blouses and leather tunics and also the knitwear ones are worn with 3/4 leather pants or tights. There are some fur coats, fur collars worn with oversized soft leather dresses, and also some fur medium skirts.
At the end I like this collection, there are many looks that I would love to wear, and I see it as a success.

Astazi vom face o excursie in moda asiatica, mai exact in colectia pret-a-porter toamna/iarna 2011/2012 a lui Junya Watanabe. Poate ca multi dintre voi se vor intreba de ce nu am ales Kenzo, sau cine este Junya Watanabe. Ei bine chiar nu mi'a placut colectia prezentata de Kenzo, prea multe imprimeuri, un look mult prea texan, ca sa zic asa, prea mult maro, asa ca pt mine este un NU categoric. Acum, de ce Junya Watanabe, pt ca e diferit, datorita colectiilor foarte tehnice si foarte bine croite si tinutelor avantgardiste, dar in mare pt ca este asiatic si pt ca asta se observa in creatiile sale, este totusi o calatorie in culisele modei asiatice.
Pentru acest sezon designerul a avut in minte, dupa parerea mea, o colectie foarte structurata, sumbra si baietoasa, dominata de piele, dar mai ales de jachetele de piele in diverse forme. Asa cum veti vedea in imagini se aseamana tare bine cu look'ul adoptat de formatiile japoneze de visual key (e un curent de muzica rock din Japonia) in acest an si, de asemenea, cu hainele pe care niponii iubitori de street fashion pur si simplu le adora. Se observa si un fel de inspiratie tribala in colectie (avand drept sursa probabil triburile asiatice) intr'o atmosfera punk combinata cu elemnte traditionale japoneze (luate bineinteles din celebrul kimono). Vom vedea si niste rochii supradimensionate, multe layere, un stil tipic japonez.
Din nou colectia este dominata de negru, ca si culoare principala, cu un strop de gri, maro si imprimeu de leopard pentru gulerele de blana.
Ca si materiale, avem pielea in prim plan, urmata de blana, tricotaj si ceva bumbac (este totusi un designer nipon, asa ca are nevoie si de un material traditional).
In ceea ce priveste hainele, trendul principal pe care Watanabe il propune prin aceasta colectie este jacheta de piele in diverse forme, de la jachete cu croiala fixa la jachete care te duc cu gandul la kimono. Fiind principalul material, designerul nu se limiteaza in a folosi pielea doar pt jachete, ci si pt tunici si bluze, pantaloni si chiar pt rochii, insa intr'o versiune mai moale, mai maleabila. Jachetele sunt purtate cu fuste plisate, scurte sau medii, cu dres negru opac si cu ghete cu talpa joasa sau ghete militare, iar bluzele si tunicile de piele si tricotajele sunt purtate cu pantaloni 3/4 sau cu dres negru opac. Apar si cateva haine de blana, gulere de blana purtate peste rochii de piele supradimensionate, si mai sunt si cateva fuste de blana.
La final imi place aceasta colectie, sunt foarte multe tinute pe care le'as purta, si o gasesc a fi un succes.

And now lets see some photos (taken from http://www.vogue.it/).
Si acum sa vedem cateva fotografii.









Until my next post!


                                                           Cya


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